Through the Lens: Capturing Dandeli's Feathered Jewels
Nestled in the Western Ghats, approximately 80 kilometers and a 2-hour drive from Hubli in Uttara Kannada, lies the Dandeli Wildlife Sanctuary. Sprawling across 866 square kilometers, it stands as the second-largest wildlife sanctuary in Karnataka. This significant sanctuary, contiguous with the Anshi National Park, together forms the Kali Tiger Reserve, a crucial habitat for tigers and a diverse array of other fascinating wildlife.
Beyond its impressive fauna, Dandeli is a haven for birdwatching enthusiasts, boasting nearly 300 species of both resident and migratory birds. My own journey to Dandeli was specifically in search of and to photograph the magnificent hornbills. The jungles here truly are a treasure trove of colorful avian life, including the Malabar grey hornbill, the striking Malabar pied hornbill, and the Great hornbill.
The forests themselves present a vibrant ecosystem, characterized by a rich mix of dense deciduous and evergreen trees. Species such as Teak, Rosewood, White Cedar, Indian Gooseberry, and Bamboo, among many others, contribute to this biodiversity.
Often dubbed the "Adventure Capital of Karnataka," Dandeli enjoys a strategic location on the banks of the Kali River, which serves as the lifeline for numerous adventure activities. White-water rafting is a major attraction, with the river's rapids offering thrilling experiences for both novice and seasoned rafters.
During my visit to the Dandeli wild life sanctuary, the Old Magazine House (OMH), situated approximately 20 kilometers from Dandeli town, served as my base. It was late March, and the weather was beginning its transition to warmer days. This property, owned and operated by the Karnataka government under the Jungle Lodges & Resorts banner, offers basic yet clean and functional amenities (note: no air conditioning). The OMH is efficiently managed by a seasoned manager and his welcoming team. Meals are served at designated times, featuring simple but delicious fare. Accommodation comprises seven double rooms and a dormitory capable of housing around 20-25 guests.
The OMH boasts a fascinating history. Constructed in 1974, its initial purpose was to serve as a secure and isolated storage facility for explosives used during the construction of the nearby Supa Dam. Following the dam's completion, the government repurposed the site, transforming it into a nature resort under the Jungle Lodges & Resorts. Today, retaining its evocative name, the Old Magazine House is a renowned haven for eco-tourists, particularly celebrated among birdwatchers & photographers drawn to the region's remarkable avian diversity.
The verdant jungles surrounding the OMH teem with avian life, creating a constant symphony of birdsong throughout the day. One of the more sought-after species is the Malabar Trogon, and I was fortunate to discover a nest directly opposite the guesthouse where I was staying. A key attraction for birdwatchers and photographers alike is the on-site bird hide, established roughly 15-20 years ago. Located at the far end of the property and discreetly enclosed with green canvas cloth, the hide features inviting bird baths and moss-covered perches, providing ideal spots for birds to drink and bathe. During the early mornings and late afternoons, a spectacular array of birds graces the hide with their presence, offering a true spectacle for bird photographers like myself. In the trees within the premises, I spotted the Indian Giant squirrel and Bengal Monitor. We were told that there is a nest of the Giant Hornbill, but did not get to sight the bird. It’s worth mentioning that OMH has couple of highly knowlegeable inhouse naturalist who are always at hand to help the guests to spot and idenfied the avian species. This proved invaluable to me.
Below are the pictures of the birds that I spotted at the hide (the squirrel in the trees). Please click to see the enlarged view.
The forests of the Western Ghats at the Dandeli Wildlife Sanctuary, especially the areas bordering the nearby Government Timber Depot, present an excellent opportunity to sight hornbills. This Timber Depot in Dandeli, one of Karnataka's oldest, has a history of supplying quality timber. Currently managed by the Forest Department, it oversees the collection and auction of timber from nearby forests, contributing significantly to state revenue and playing a role in sustainable logging practices by managing dead tree removal. Intriguingly, this commercial area also acts as an unexpected sanctuary for diverse birdlife, notably hornbills, attracted by the depot's wooded environment and fruit-bearing trees.
Early mornings are particularly rewarding for hornbill enthusiasts. The forest canopy awakens with the distinctive calls and movements of Malabar Pied Hornbills. It's common to witness these monogamous pairs foraging for fruits, perched side-by-side on timber logs, or gracefully flitting between the trees. Beyond their striking appearance and animated behavior, Malabar Pied Hornbills exhibit a remarkable lifelong pair bond. These devoted mates are frequently observed together, engaging in activities such as feeding, preening, and even sharing food. This profound connection is so strong that the loss of one partner often leads to the subsequent demise of the other, highlighting their enduring commitment.
Below are photographs of the Malabar Pied Hornbill that I captured at the Government Timber Depot… please click to see the enlarged view.
Within the Government Timber Depot, I had the remarkable experience of sighting an active nest of a Malabar Grey Hornbill and was fortunate to photograph the bird's fascinating nesting rituals firsthand. During this period, the female hornbill seals herself within a tree cavity, becoming entirely reliant on the male for food. She remains inside until the chicks are sufficiently developed to fend for themselves. The following four pictures offer a glimpse into this intriguing behavior: 1. The male skillfully plucks a fruit, using his impressive beak to toss it into the air and then swallow it. 2. He then flies to the nest cavity, where he regurgitates the fruit for his mate. 3. She, in turn, feeds their hungry chicks and herself, diligently ensuring their survival. 4. And he's off again, tirelessly foraging for more sustenance to support his family. The Timber Depot is also a habitat for a variety of other avian species. I've included a couple of pictures of different birds I observed there. Please click to see the enlarged view.
Dandeli, easily accessible from major Indian cities via Hubli, is an excellent destination for a short vacation or a photography expedition, particularly for nature lovers and birding enthusiasts. The region boasts a growing number of resorts and homestays, many of which offer guided birding walks led by in-house experts or local naturalists during the prime morning and evening hours. The Dandeli Wildlife Sanctuary is renowned for its impressive avian diversity, reportedly hosting nearly 300 bird species, making it a fantastic opportunity for birders and bird photographers. Furthermore, the adjacent Anshi Tiger Reserve is home to a variety of mammals and is well worth exploring for wildlife enthusiasts. For those seeking adventure, the Kali River offers white-water rafting, canoeing, and other watersports activities provided by various operators. Finally, whether arriving in or departing from Dandeli, a visit to the Big Mishra Pedha restaurant is highly recommended for their delectable Benne Dosa, and don't forget to pack a box of their Doodh and Lal Peda to enjoy later.
