Jhalana to Ranthambore: chasing India’s untamed heart
Please click the pictures to view the enlarged images.In the early summer of 2025, I set out on four back-to-back photography trips across the jungles of India, spending a few weeks fully immersed in nature. I’ve documented my experiences and photographs from Dandeli (Uttar Kannada) and Kaziranga (Assam) in my blogs, which nature enthusiasts and curious travelers can explore here: https://www.nomadikmind.com/my-blog. This photo-blog covers the third and fourth leg of my tour to Jhalana Leopard Park and Ranthambore National Park.
Jhalana
Nestled within the ancient Aravalli hills, Jhalana Leopard Reserve is a testament to urban wildlife conservation. Once a royal hunting ground for the Maharajas of Jaipur, it became India's first dedicated leopard reserve in 2017. What makes Jhalana truly unique is its location—a mere 6 to 11 kilometers from the Jaipur city center and the international airport, making it incredibly accessible for a quick and thrilling safari. The reserve is currently divided into three safari zones, offering visitors different routes to explore its dry, deciduous landscape. The safari bookings are managed by Rajasthan Forest Department and can be made online or through local agents. Advance booking is recommended, especially in high season.
Thanks to the conservation efforts, the total leopard population, at Jhalana, has grown to over 40+ (as per the census of 2022). The park's thriving leopard population,which are more diurnal than their counterparts elsewhere, makes for a high probability of sightings.
Since big cats are generally elusive, I always prefer to do multiple safaris on a wildlife photography trip to increase my chances of a sighting. However, on this trip, I was constrained for time and could only manage one safari. But luck was on my side. No sooner had we entered the reserve than we spotted Rana, a well-known male leopard, feasting on a fresh Indian Blue Bull (Nilgai) kill. Described as bold, fearless, and camera-friendly, he has a reputation for being more visible and approachable than most other leopards, which are typically shy and elusive. We followed Rana as he finished his meal, moved to a watering hole, and finally retired atop an old viewing pavilion
While leopards are undoubtedly the star attraction at Jhalana, a variety of other wildlife adds to the sense of being immersed in a living, breathing wilderness. Beyond the predators and their prey, the park is a haven for birdwatchers, with a vibrant avian population that includes Shrikes, Kingfisher, Owl and , various other birds.
My single safari at Jhalana left an indelible impression. I left with a promise to return, to delve deeper into this unique urban wilderness. For any future travelers to Jaipur, my advice is simple: don't just visit the palaces and forts. Take a morning or afternoon to witness this incredible conservation story for yourself. A safari at Jhalana is a powerful reminder that some of the most memorable wildlife encounters can be found right on the edge of the city.
Ranthambore
The story of Ranthambore National Park is one of remarkable transformation—from a royal hunting ground to a globally celebrated conservation success. Once the exclusive domain of the Maharajas of Jaipur, this historic landscape was declared a national park in 1980 under the ambitious Project Tiger initiative. Today, it stands as a premier wildlife destination, renowned for its thriving population of Bengal tigers—approximately 70, according to the 2022 census.
My journey from Jaipur to Ranthambore spanned roughly 180 kilometers and took about four hours by road. I opted for a private taxi, which gave me the flexibility to soak in the changing scenery. As the city faded behind me, the terrain shifted to the rugged, dry hills of the Aravalli and Vindhyan ranges. That transition alone built a sense of anticipation—the kind that only grows when you know you’re heading into the wild.
My home for the next four days was the Bagh Palace Resort, where I joined a group of fellow wildlife enthusiasts for a photography-focused safari.
Ranthambore National Park is divided into ten safari zones, with Zones 1 through 5 being the most sought-after for tiger sightings. The safari bookings—whether for a 6-seater jeep or a 20-seater canter—are in high demand and must be made online well in advance through the Rajasthan Forest Department. There are two daily safari slots: one in the morning and one in the afternoon, with timings adjusted seasonally to match sunrise and sunset.
The forest here is a dramatic confluence of the Aravalli and Vindhya ranges, creating a mosaic of habitats. The dominant Dhok tree sheds its leaves in winter, offering excellent visibility for wildlife tracking. The landscape is a blend of open grasslands, rocky ridges, and perennial lakes. Towering above it all is the majestic Ranthambore Fort, and nestled within its ancient ramparts lies the revered Trinetra Ganesh Temple—a pilgrimage site that draws thousands of devotees who brave the jungle to offer prayers.
Of all the zones, Zone 3 remains my personal favorite. It’s the most picturesque, with the safari trail winding around Padam Talao and Rajbagh Lake. The shores are dotted with hauntingly beautiful ruins, including the historic Jogi Mahal hunting lodge. Zone 3 also boasts a high likelihood of tiger sightings, as the big cats are frequently spotted near the water’s edge.
Over three thrilling days, we went on six safaris across Zones 2–5 and were incredibly fortunate to witness three iconic Bengal tigers—Riddhi, Noori, and the legendary Arrowhead.
Riddhi, daughter of the legendary Arrowhead and great-granddaughter of Machli, was our first sighting—and she made a dramatic entrance. On Day 1, she climbed out of a deep gorge with her three sub-adult cubs, heading toward the hilltop where we were stationed. The family moved with quiet authority, their presence commanding the terrain. We saw her and one of her cubs again early on Day 3 by the banks of Padam Talao, bathed in morning light. Later that afternoon, Riddhi offered a stunning head-to-head view—her gaze steady, her posture regal. It felt like the forest had paused just for her.
Noori, daughter of the famed tigress Noor, exudes quiet strength and grace. We spotted her on two consecutive afternoons—first resting under a tree on Day 3, where after nearly two hours she rose and slipped into a nearby watering hole, giving us a rare close-up moment. On Day 4, she reappeared with quiet confidence, crossing our path before settling into the water again. Watching her stretch and soak in the shallows felt like nature unfolding at its own unhurried pace.
Arrowhead, throughout our safaris, we searched for Arrowhead, the legendary tigress who had recently suffered serious injuries, leaving her weak and vulnerable. On Day 2, we spotted one of her sub-adult daughters, Kankati, resting inside an old structure near the park entrance. By the final day, we had almost given up hope—until, just as we were heading toward the exit, Arrowhead emerged from the forest with her two cubs. The trio settled into a nearby waterbody, the cubs playfully splashing around while she watched quietly. Arrowhead passed away in June 2023, and her cubs have since been relocated to other reserves—a poignant end to a remarkable legacy.
While tigers steal the spotlight, Ranthambore is home to a wealth of other wildlife. On our trip, we spotted a leopard in the rocky outcrops, a sloth bear foraging, wild boars, and herds of sambar deer—each encounter adding to the richness of the safari experience.
The park also dazzles bird lovers, with over 300 species. From the shimmering Indian peacock to pied kingfishers, rufous treepies, and brown fish owls, the colors and calls bring every corner of the forest alive.
As the safaris came to an end, Ranthambore left me with memories far deeper than I & had imagined. It is a place where history and wilderness meet, and every moment holds the promise of discovery. This journey has left me with stories to cherish—and a quiet promise to return. There is always more to uncover in its wild embrace.
A special note of gratitude to our skipper and mentor, Trikansh Sharma of Toehold Adventures, whose guidance, patience, and deep knowledge enriched every safari. His seamless planning made our journey not just smooth, but truly unforgettable.
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